Yet another sunny perfect day for a 20 km walk. At the end of the day, I took the optional hike up the local mountain to check out a 9th century castle
Early morning on the Camino
Spent about two hours walking along a path like this
Here's the castle
Here's me at the castle
Pano shot from the castle. I like the clouds in this one
That path you see running out in the centre is the one we will take tomorrow morning, for 26 km
Another perfect sunny 23C day. Walked about 21 km, which nowadays feels like a short walk in the park.
Three peregrini. This is a statue of Santo Domingo. Go check out my post on day 12 to learn more about this grey Camino Saint. He's a veritable patron of all pilgrims
Cute little church along the way. Note the flecha (way marker) on the right side of the church
Just liked the poppies on the way. They are everywhere
The final part of the road down into Isar. The locals call this descent Cuesta Matamulas , which translates Mule-Killer Slope. We didn't find it all that bad though
26 km walk. Burgos is a huge city - 170000 souls. It took us 2 hours to walk from the commercial/industrial sector to the old historical centre.
Today I am struck that in one day of walking, we can pass from a tiny village (30 souls) to rippling wheat fields, to forest, to arid grazing pasture, to industrialized city centre.
A note about distances. I am a fast walker. I know I walk about 6 km/hr. However, here, with packs on and rough terrain, our average is about 3.5 kph (including breaks). So a 26 km day really means about 7.5 hours of walking.
Just tonight we met a young (mid forties) man who told us his knee was shot and he was packing it in. Another reminder that the Camino is a respecter of no man.
Dos amigos
That city in the distance is Burgos, about 15 km away, or 4 hours of walking
Burgos, from a distance
Wayside daisies and poppies
Actually from yesterday
Finally left the highway and wheat fields, and spent the better part of the day surrounded by pine and Holme oak. I appreciated visiting the tomb of San Juan who made the lives of so many pilgrims before me more pleasant. This town began tending to the needs of pilgrims in the 800s. It was touching to see the devotion of so many pilgrims to such a great saint.
We walked 31 km today. All bones ache. At least no blisters. Internet is too slow to show all pictures. Here are a few for now.
Tomb of St Juan del Ortega, friend of pilgrims
Outside of San Juan.
About 555km now to Santiago. Today was super sunny, nary a cloud, and about 24C. We walked about 20km. Tomorrow will be a doozy, as we have to go about 30km, and climb about 500m. The only problem I'm having is that by about 15km, the balls of my feet start killing, just from all the steps. We are definitely out of La Rioja, and it is obvious. The vineyards have given way to a patchwork of wheat and other crops. Today's path followed alonside the N-120, a two-lane highway, so the scenery was less appealing.
When we arrive at our destination, our tradition is to get cleaned up, and sit in a plaza (piaza, square) and have a coffee or beer and people watch. These towns are all along the Way, and thus fill with pilgrims each evening. We have termed the gait so frequently seen, the Camino Shuffle. One may observe people grunting and groaning as they push themselves up from their tables, or shuffle along with feet coated with gauze or bandages. Also common are knee braces and tensor bands everywhere. A man told us yesterday that his wife had picked up a virus, and has had to take a bus from town to town for the last few days. The Camino takes its toll on everyone, each in his own way.
About 21 km. Compared to the last two days, this felt like a walk in the park. I find I'm not taking many pictures now, as the Camino starts to get really repetitive. Lots of fields. Lots of path. Today we passed through Rioja vineyards as far as the eye can see. Tomorrow we leave the Rioja region.
We are still whole. No blisters (unlike almost everyone else). No sprains or anything else. However, the Camino has a way of humbling the proud, so we are taking it one day at a time.
Santo Domingo was born in 1019. He was rejected by a local religious order, so gave his life to assisting pilgrims on the Camino and improving the route. He built a pilgrim hospital (seeing the struggling pilgrims, I totally get why it was needed), now the Parador and a church which has evolved into the Cathedral. Adjoining the Cathedral is a chicken coop, explained by the following legend.
The chicken coop relates to the story of the Miracle of the Cock. Embellished over the years it has become one of the more endearing legends along the Way of St. James. Legend has it that a pilgrim couple and their son stopped at an inn here on their way to Santiago. The pretty innkeeper’s daughter had her eye on the handsome lad, but the devout young fellow thwarted her advances. Incensed by his refusal she hid a silver goblet in his backpack and reported him for stealing it. The innocent lad was caught and condemned to hang. Some accounts suggest the parents continued on their way, oblivious of the fate of their son and on their return from Santiago they found him still hanging on the gallows but miraculously still alive thanks to the intervention of Santo Domingo. They rushed to the sheriff's house and found him just about to tuck into dinner: Upon hearing the news, he retorted that their son was no more alive than the cock he was about to eat, whereupon the fowl stood up on the dish and crowed loudly. The miracle was not lost on the sheriff who rushed back to the gallows and cut down the poor lad, who was given a full pardon. We are left to speculate on the fate of the foxy maiden. Indeed so many miracles were ascribed to the intervention of Santo Domingo that the town that came to carry also referred to as the Compostela of Rioja.
This is what we are looking at most of the time
This was earlier in the day. We actually have about 574km to go now
Not a whole lot to report. Walked 31 km today. I don't think I've ever walked this far in a day. Basically 60 km in the last two days. Mercifully, tomorrow is only 21 km. Much of today was city streets leaving Logroño and city streets entering Nájera. Weather was nearly perfect. About 24C and partly sunny.
In Logroño. Modern tribute to los peregrini. I thought it was a bit redolent of communist labor propaganda, but Fr. Hogan explained to me how it represents the grim determination of the pilgrim on El Camino
A hopeful sign along The Way
Much of today's path was amongst the red earth vineyards of La Rioja. Some of the best wine in the world
Pilgrim: In Nájera, you are Nájera-ite. That is, while here, you are one of us. Note the roses. They grow like crazy here
Our longest day so far - 29 km. Thankfully weather was perfect and the terrain was not terribly hilly. Most of the Camino today, as with the last few days, passes through natural fields and farmers' vineyards. We have now left the Navarra region, and entered the great wine producing region of La Rioja. Logroño is a large university town, which we will not see much of, as our feet and legs are fairly tired, and we have another long day tomorrow - 30km.
12th century church Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro in Torres del Rio built by the Knights Templar
Entering wine country
More Buen Camino graffiti
Nice walk of about 21km. Perfect weather. The route has two options - one easy, and he other purported to be difficult. We of course took the difficult, but quieter route. It actually wasn't that bad, and afforded nice scenery. Plus, on the way was the Fuente de Vino. Yes, you read that correctly, Font of Vine. A local vinery provides free wine to pilgrims to fortify them for the day. Sadly, it wasn't operational why we got there.
Spoke with a couple pilgrims today who told us that on the day we crossed the Pyrenees, six people had to be evacuated because of hypothermia, one broke a clavicle, and one died because of a heartbattack.
At the Fuente de Vino
Walked 21 km today through gently rolling hills of the Navarre region. Clear skies, 16C and gentle wind. You can't ask for better weather. No blisters yet (a miracle), and knees and legs are doing just fine. Muscles are a tad sore, but not too bad.
Leaving Puenta La Reina this morning. This bridge was built in the 11th century. They knew what they were doing back then.
More path
Path leading up to Cirauqui
El Peregrino on the path leading up to Cirauqui
Even the graffiti wishes us a Buen Camino (the greeting all pilgrims use when passing each other)
A farmer did this to give joy to the pilgrims passing his farm
Poppies grow all along the path
A stork nesting in the cupola of a church
About 24 km. beautiful weather. 16C and sunny. Part of this leg involves climbing Alto del Perdón, the Mountain of Forgiveness (a climb of about 350m) . At the summit is a wrought iron representation of pilgrims with heads bent into the wind (it's a windy place, hence the turbines).
The Camino has looked like this for much of the last couple days
On the way up Alto del Perdón
Yours, at the summit of Alto del Perdón
Fr. Hogan and I with the Iron Pilgrims
You can go anywhere from the summit of Alto del Perdón
Lots of wheat fields rippling in the breeze
Easiest day so far. Not super hilly, and about 21 km. Weather was nearly perfect. Tiny bits of drizzle, but mostly partly cloudy and about 18C. Very pleasant. Pamplona is a really historic town, and the largest so far on the Camino.
Just setting out in the morning. This is the bridge that leads us out of Rubiri and onto the trail to Pamplona
These markers guide us along The Way
Much of the path today was just like this
Yours truly, in a wheat field
Part of the path today was like this. Very peaceful
Only 22.2km, and not nearly as hilly as yesterday. Woke up to 8C and rain. Hit the trail by about 7:45am. Was a pretty walk. Mostly forested. Rain let up around noon. Got to Rubiri around 1:15. Fr. Hogan and I made sure to pick up some cheese, sausage and Rioja for late lunch, and now getting no ready for supper at 7:30. Legs still a little noodly. Hoping they get stronger. No blisters yet - basically a miracle.
Fr. Hogan and I at a rest stop.
Yours truly, el peregrino
The Camino has its ups and downs. This day is mostly ups. 25km. Basically 20km up, to at ascent of about 1450m, then a sharp drop for about 500m. The whole day feels like a ginormous uphill. For us, it was also cold (8C) and rainy with a driving cross wind. We were utterly exhausted at the end. Walked from 8:15am to 3:15pm. It is truly amazing how tired one's legs can get. Mine felt like someone replaced the bones with overcooked noodles.
In Roncesvalles the night before we started
Fr Seamus Hogan and I just leaving SJDP. Note the rain gear
Fr. Hogan and I at a 765km to go marker
Super old church in Roncesvalles, contains, allegedly, Charlemagne's chess board. Was closed, so couldn't verify.
Not super exciting. Took high speed train to Bayonne. Then bus to St Jean Pied de Port.
The Camino begins here.
In St. Jean Piec de Port
Tomorrow we climb 1490m over the Pyrenees mountains to Roncesvalles. They are calling for rain. May be the toughest day of the pilgrimage.
Left home at 6:10am. Three buses to get to YYZ at 9:30. Flight YYZ to CLT landed at 2:30pm. Then caught flight to Paris landing at 8:30am on May 17.
Landed at Paris at 8:25am. Hit the town. Saw the Louvre, San Sulpice, Notre Dame Cathedral, Sainte Chappelle, Eiffel Tower.
San Sulpice
Sainte Chappelle
At the Louvre
Finished the day at the Eiffel tower.
What better way to pay tribute to the Popes?
